“The face of God is your strength, as well as your human frailty and fallibility.” ~ Adyashanti
It was not easy in the first place to give a start for this 7 month journey to Southeast Asia for the second time. Only thing that was certain was that I was going to be starting from Indonesia. Following destinations were not in the picture yet. Many things were unknown regarding the future and regarding my current state and yet all I knew was that the roads were calling me to sing the song of my reality.
All sorts of fears that I carry (existential or trauma related) were so much in my radar as they were keeping on appearing out of nowhere. It was the time to welcome them. So this journey to Indonesia started with the theme of facing fears. During my 3 months stay here, I was tested with some physical weaknesses and illnesses. When things do not go well, I try to control them. When I get sick, I panic and immediately try to end it. These are my deeply ingrained tendencies that had been repeating all my life, leaving me with the sense of weakness and despair.
Something was obviously preventing me from synchronizing with the flow of the universe. What was it that I needed, what was missing? The answer emerged: I needed to simply allow and soften my tendency to resist. When fear reaches its highest point, I could lean back and surrender rather than fighting back. I could let it reveal itself in the light of consciousness. My vulnerability and courage can be a powerful mix. I allow myself to be sick, I allow myself not to be fully recovered yet. I allow to feel the deceptive coldness of loneliness. I allow myself to sometimes forget my intentions and motivation. I allow the uncertainty of the future and I allow the anxiety it creates. The list goes on and on in relation with the activity of my mind and this is okay. I embrace my frailty. I meet my freedom!
Let’s come back to traveling. I would like to begin telling about my experiences in Indonesia with Ubud, the cultural center of the island. Ubud is located in the mid parts of Bali, amongst lush green rice fields. Here you can not only explore the culture and arts and crafts but also the temples and wildly stunning landscapes. The area is also a vibrant hub for events on spirituality.
In the downtown, along the most central street Jalan Raya, you can see different examples of traditional Balinese architecture. It is like an open-air museum with some temples, museums and Ubud Palace. One of the most characteristics of the temples is the split gate that functions as the entrance from the outer realm (seen at the opening picture of this essay). Guardian statues with different symbolic meanings welcome you through the entrance. And inside these complexes big banyan trees and moss-covered carvings create a mystical atmosphere.
Monkey forest is one of the most popular visits in the center of Ubud. Peaceful atmosphere of the jungle is home of hundreds of grey-haired, long-tailed macaques. If you do not worry about the behaviors of the monkeys, you can enjoy watching them in their natural habitat.
Even though Ubud is a favoured social center for so many people, it also has amazing parts where you can enjoy your aloneness in nature. Just a few kilometers outside of Ubud is filled with lush green rice fields and terraces. I recommend walking on these two routes into the heart of these green areas. Sari Organic walk and Sweet Orange walk are scenic paths through the rice fields that also include some cute little cafes where you can rest a bit and enjoy the scenery. These paths take you from the center of Ubud to an environment full of coconut trees and tropical birds.
If you are looking for an escape from the crowded downtown, these are the best places to come and hang around. You can also find the best type of accommodation for yourself in the areas of these green rice fields. There are nice and humble neighborhoods where you can find a homestay. These are not cheaper options but also best way to see the locals in their ordinary life and share time together. This is the family with whom I stayed for a while in Ubud. We see them in their traditional cloths during the wedding ceremony of their elder son.
Water is maybe the most significant features of this beautiful island. Water is everywhere, strong ocean is surrounding the island, springs are reaching the surface of the earth in many different parts of nature, rivers are meandering inside the island, forming little valleys, jumping from the cliffs as waterfalls. The island is being blessed by water. It is not surprising that the women are blessing their offerings with water every morning.
Water temples are outstanding elements of Balinese culture and spiritual identity. These are the sacred places of worship that embody the island’s belief in the interconnectedness of nature. Each temple, with its unique enchanting settings, invites visitors to experience the rituals that offer a glimpse into the island’s deep-rooted connection with nature. People perform traditional cleansing or purification rituals in front of the natural springs that are considered as holy.
I was mesmerized by the serenity and tranquility at Gunung Kawi Sebatu Water Temple. Surrounded by tropical gardens, the temple’s peaceful setting offers a contemplative space for visitors. Crystal-clear waters coming from the spring is believed to bring blessings and harmony. Tirta Empul is maybe the most popular water temple in Bali. That’s why it is almost always packed with big tourist groups. If you are looking for a deeper spiritual experience in a calm environment, I advise you to choose a calmer and not a popular temple.
Close to Ubud, what you also can do is to go and see some of the majestic waterfalls of the island. They are genuinely powerful and it is not really possible to approach some of them closely. Cascading water floats through iconic rock formations and rich diversity of tropical plants and trees. Seeing some unusual rock carvings on the mossy walls may surprise you. At some of the waterfalls it is possible to dip yourself in the surrounding pools. The most beautiful waterfalls I visited in this region are Sumampan, Tenenungan and Kanto Lampo.
Coming to the vibrant life of Ubud.. Ubud is filled with so many restaurants and cafes with remarkable designs and unique concepts. (Vegan and vegetarian options are so rich.) They are contributing to the laid-back and sometimes the vibrant rhythm of the town.
Here you can also find all sorts of authentic souvenirs so downtown Ubud is one of the best places to do shopping in Bali. Local artisan shops present wide range of products such as; jewellery, batik textiles, silk scarves, handwoven baskets, wood carvings or paintings that are the examples of Balinese handicraft traditions.
There is so much going on every day in Ubud regarding the events, courses and workshops on different subjects such as; yoga, meditation, chi gong, reiki, ecstatic and contact dance, so many different types of therapies, massages and wellness activities, acupuncture, sound healing, kirtans, cacao and tea ceremonies and many more.. For instance, Alchemy (see below) and Yoga Barn are the most well-known wellness hubs offering so many different daily classes. So you can liven up your day with one of these activities.
I came to Ubud expecting that it is the spiritual center of the whole island. But I was wrong and disappointed as I couldn’t come across what I was looking for. To be honest, I found some of the events as an extension of consumerism that can only provide short term relaxation. Some people benefit from that which is good but we need to be careful when spirituality and popular culture comes together. This may keep people away from approaching spirituality not in its truest sense but superficially. It was hilarious to read on the signboards some of the names given to the shops; awakened dreamers, intuitive jewelery, conscious skincare! 🙂
Speaking of central Bali, I’d like to mention about a vertical route I made between mid and the north part of the island. It took me all the way from north of Denpasar (the capital) to the north of the island, to Bedugul and Twin lakes. This route included 2 very important temples; Taman Ayun Temple (see below-upper picture) and Ulun Danu Beratan temple near Lake Beratan (see below-lower picture). They are the most beautiful examples for Balinese temple architecture.
Meru towers are the principal shrines of Balinese temples. It is a wooden, pagoda-like structure and its height represents the sacred Hindu Mount Meru. The temples are exquisitely decorated with rich ornamentations, both wooden and stone sculpting. These complexes have an inner courtyard that serves as a performance venue for the rituals practiced by the combination of music and dance.
In the northern region of Lake Beratan, Twin Lakes (see below) are worth to visit. These two crater lakes are located in the altitude of 1300m and nestled in the lush forests. From the famous viewpoint you can enjoy the spectacular vista of the lakes and the forest. The area is rich in terms of water resources and home to some very beautiful waterfalls such as; Gitgit, Sekumpul and Banyumala Twin waterfalls. We shouldn’t forget to mention the beautiful Munduk area in this region that is off the beaten path, that is best for hiking.
