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HUE – TU HIEU MONASTERY

December 2024

This essay is not a travelogue on Hue but it is about the days I spent at Tu Hieu Monastery. What brought me here was the love and great respect I feel for Thich Nhat Hanh. We call him Thay, which means teacher or master in Vietnamese.

“I hope you are not going to transform my words into concepts, new concepts that can be stored inside you. I don’t want to give you anything. I only want to dance for you, like the bee. If you see something, you must realize that you yourself have seen it. It is in you, not in my dance. Please go and sit next to a sleeping child. Look at the child. Or go into your yard and sit at the foot of an apple tree. Or go into the kitchen and make yourself a cup of tea. Whatever you do, do it in full attentiveness, in full awareness. Do not lose yourself in forgetfulness. Please don’t think at all about becoming one with the child, the tree, the tea. There is no need to think at all. Taste yourself with the child, taste yourself with the tree, taste yourself with the tea while a smile blossoms on your lips.”  ~ Thich Nhat Hanh

Zen Master Thich Nhat Hanh is a global spiritual leader, poet, and peace activist, renowned for his powerful teachings and writings on mindfulness and peace. Since Vietnam War, his life had been dedicated to the work of inner transformation for the benefit of individuals and society. He has been a pioneer bringing Buddhism and mindfulness to the West, and establishing an engaged Buddhist community called Plum Village.

If you like to know more about Plum Village, you can read through my essay “Plum Village, A Tribute to Thich Nhat Hanh” where I wrote about my days in Plum Village Thailand. 7 years ago, back in those days I was blessed to see Thich Nhat Hanh at the week of his birthday. So many people from all around the world met there to celebrate his loving, compassionate, wise being and his great teachings that guide us to the ever-present peace and happiness. I clearly remember that moment when hundreds of us shed tears of love as he entered into the space of the celebrations. The light of his pure being was strongly pouring onto us, saturating our soul with immense love.

Tu Hieu Monastery is his Root Monastery where he was ordained as a novice monk at the age of sixteen in 1942. During the Vietnam War, he exiled from his native Vietnam for almost four decades. Then he turned back to this monastery in 2018 and his wish came true as he stayed here in the remaining years of his life. He passed away peacefully in 22 January 2022, in the Deep Listening Hut at this monastery.

With 160 years of history, the monastery has an aged elegance. Its ancient architecture and the beautiful landscapes that surrounds it creates a deeply peaceful environment. The old entrance gate at the beginning of the complex and the half-moon pond that is just behind it take you to another space and time. Through entering this gate, you become enchanted even from the very beginning. The same feelings follow you throughout the whole monastery. There is something mysterious here. Inner silence envelops your soul.

In the mid parts of the area, there is the main sanctuary where the monks do their chantings every day. And behind that, even more mystical feelings evoke in you as you enter the area of Thay’s house and the memorial room he named Deep Listening (below). Seeing inside his house, his bed, working desk, bookshelf makes you feel that he is there, alive, breathing with you. Emotions rise up by imagining the moment of his last peaceful breath. I felt that he was alive in my peaceful breath and in my compassionate tears right at that moment.

Something was gradually getting clarified. So many times, I have heard Thay speaking about our ancestors, pointing out their significance and honoring them. Then during my travels, I learned that the most common belief system in Vietnam is Folk Religion that is devoted to spirits, including the ancestors who are considered to be the guardians and protectors of the family. Then I made the connection between the ancient tradition of these lands and its influence on Thay’s teachings. The presence of our ancestors was a significant part of the mystical energy of the monastery. I was clearly feeling this. They were obviously communicating with our open hearts.

Thay’s teachings underline the truth that we are all a continuation of our ancestors. Our parents and ancestors are inside us. Here is a part from one of his teachings:

~ In gratitude, I bow to all generations of ancestors in my blood family.
I carry in me the life, blood, wisdom, happiness, and sorrow of all generations.
~ In gratitude, I bow to all generations of ancestors in my spiritual family.
I see in myself my teachers, the awakened ones, the ones who show me the way of love,
understanding and forgiveness.
~ In gratitude, I bow to this land and all of the ancestors who made it available.
I see myself touching my ancestors who know the ways to live in peace and harmony with nature,
protecting the mountains, forests, water, animals, vegetation, and minerals of this land.

I ask for their support, protection, and strength. I open my heart and my body to receive the energy of understanding, loving kindness, and protection from them. I vow to contribute my part in transforming the violence, and delusion that still lie deep in the consciousness of the society so that future generations will have more safety, joy, and peace. 

These are my dear grandmother’s hands. I am seeing her hands in my hands now.

During my stay at Hue, I was part of a group of friends who were involved in a 3-day program in the Nunnery of the monastery. The schedule of the days was filled with various programs between 5am to 8pm such as; chanting sutras, singing, dharma talks, silent meals, sitting, walking or tea meditation and deep relaxation (my favourite Plum Village practice). The main practice was mindfulness, to be mindful in any given moment. Modest, serene and kind energies of the nuns and monks were very beautiful, reminding me to align with the ever-present peace.

The tranquil and safe environment of the monastery invites and supports the person to be mindful in every possible breath and step. Your commitment heightens the capacity to access awareness. Then this becomes an advanced practice for anyone even if you are a long-term practitioner and already integrated mindfulness on your path. Advanced in all its simplicity! I really adore the quality of Zen -and also Plum Village tradition- that is based on simplicity which feels natural, easeful, pure and clear. Simplicity increases sensitivity and by this way we touch subtle or hidden areas in our perceptions. There is a powerful yin energy in the air that embraces the person with compassion. I feel safe here. I feel I can rest and soften all parts of my being here. I am held here. I can accept and let go. I can surrender. Everything is taken care of. There is no need to worry. There is no need to fear. This is also the power of the community.

No mud, no lotus… When there is no resistance, unconscious materials can be free to become visible. Opening to all sorts of experiential phenomena enabled me to see once again some of the recurring inner narratives, beliefs and assumptions that were communicating through my body. Especially through the influence of my recent social relationships, I was facing the feelings of being left out or abandoned, inadequacy, unworthiness, arrogance and the fear of loneliness.

In the middle of all these unpleasant feelings, I was worn out. I called out to Thay, my grandmother and my ancestors as I feel them like my protectors. I called them for help. I just wanted to let myself fall in their arms as I was so tired of facing the burdens I had been carrying for so many years. I was heard, I knew it with every cell of my body. I surrendered and something emerged, unlocking some of the closed parts of my heart. Kind of a deep inner knowing was communicating with me, relieving the pain, soothing my soul. There is a tremendous power in surrendering. It is where the silence speaks the truth.

I realized once again that my being is a sacred temple, supported, protected and blessed by the wisdom and love handed down to me from countless generations of my ancestors. Sometimes suffering can be intense, so it is important to remember to ask for help, support or guidance. We are not alone. The nourishment we long for is closer to us than we imagine. I am so thankful for the guidance and compassionate presence of my ancestors. They are with me here and now.

The Author