During the days when I started to feel overwhelmed by the business of Bali, Amed came into my route in the right timing. It was time to explore northeast parts of the island that were said to be remote and secluded. Yes, it was true, I loved the ambience and the nature of Amed quite much that I stayed there much longer than I expected.
The way I travel is changing over the years. Although it always filled me with enthusiasm, I visit relatively fewer places now. I find myself slower, stay at the places longer and then move forward. I enjoy to give enough time to listen and take in what I experience. Traveling is a like a full-time job. Plannings, preparations, visits, activities, giving decisions, finding out the ways to face an issue in an unfamiliar environment, arranging places to stay and eat, organizing the best ways for transportation (plane, train, bus, bike etc.), make preparations for visa procedures, learn all the new paradigms of being in a new country, consider the next day, next week, next month… Additionally there is a lot of stimulation on the road. Therefore, one needs to advance the art of listening and feeling their heart in order to proceed in the direction of their truth.
Amed is a cute little fishing village that is an excellent blend of nature, local culture and laid-back beach vibes. Compared to other touristic destinations in Bali, Amed has less hustle and bustle around. You can relax on the beach all day long, swim in the crystal clear water and enjoy the calm and modest ambiance. On its coastline there are several beaches (e.g., Lipah beach) that are parts of other humble little fisherman settlements. The shores look very colorful with the wooden outrigger boats called Jukung.
During my time here, I mostly stayed at Jemeluk beach that is so close to the centre of Amed. It is a black sand beach with lots of fishing boats, warungs (local restaurants) and inexpensive simple accommodations. It is well known for the beauty of its submarine. It was such an amazing feeling to be so close to the rich underwater habitat so almost every day I was spending time in the water snorkeling. And at nights I was enjoying to hear the mellow sounds of the waves during my sleep.
Bali is part of the Coral Triangle, the area with the highest biodiversity of marine species, especially fish, turtles and corals. Along the entire coast of Amed there are reefs so without the need of a boat or a tour, you can access them easily just by swimming from the beach. Amed has become well known as a diving area. Free diving, Scuba diving and snorkeling are the most favorite activities in the village. You can read more (and see some pictures) on the submarine of this region, in the other essay entitled; ‘Gili Meno – Gili Air’.
Picturesque view of Mount Agung stands in the background of the scenery in Amed. Mount Agung is an active volcano and the highest mountain in Bali. Its majesty is clearly seen from the shores of Amed and you can feel its powerful presence from there. Below you will see the stunning view of the mountain during the beautiful moments of the sunset.
Maybe it is also a good time to give little hints about the transportation in and around Bali. There is almost no (or very very few) public transport on the islands. Motorbikes are the most common vehicles in the traffic. You can rent one or use motorbike taxis which is the easiest way. But unfortunately, there is no motorbike taxis in some of the islands where you have no choice but to use a regular taxi and that may end up not being very reasonable in price. I discovered a useful way to journey between different towns or destinations and chose to rent a daily taxi with its driver if I need to cover longer distances. I was sharing the journey and its cost with other travelers and the driver was taking us to the destinations one by one according to our request. It was very comfortable indeed to explore the routes I myself was designing due to my interests.
I discovered northeast Bali by this way. Coming to the worth visiting places in northeast Bali; Virgin beach (above) is spectacular with its white sand, crystal clear turquoise water and tropical trees. Ujung Water Palace is remarkable with its beautiful landscape, ponds and architecture. Amlapura (below) is worth to stop by for its vibrant and colorful traditional food market. Sidemen village can be visited for its lush green rice fields, valleys and scenic view of Mount Agung. Active volcanos and the strong ocean are not familiar to me. I find it very interesting to see road signs here and there in Bali that shows volcano and tsunami evacuation routes.
Located on the slopes of Mount Agung, Besakih mother temple (below) is also in this region, that is the most important, largest, and holiest temple of Balinese Hinduism. It is an extensive complex of 23 temples, built on six levels, terraced up the slope. Because of its significance I went to this temple with some expectations. I was disappointed at the end of my visit and there I realized more clearly that I didn’t feel any spiritual connection or deepening in any of the temples in Bali. They may be stunning regarding their design, architecture, landscape and atmosphere but to me they don’t evoke a sense of sacredness. I found the divinity in Bali in the elements of nature, the rivers, ocean, jungles, or in the tears of a child.
One last destination I have to mention about northeast Bali is Kintamani that is the village settled by the crater lake of the active volcano Mount Batur. Located at 1,500m above sea level ensures a relaxed and pleasant climate and clean mountain air, making it an ideal escape from the coastal heat. Because of the volcanic quality the soil is rich so the fields are commonly used for agriculture.
Along with its peaceful and quiet vibe, people come here for two main reasons. One of them is the morning hike up to the summit of Mount Batur and the other is the hot springs. The hostel I chose to stay had an amazing location that offers a stunning panorama with the active Batur volcano and its serene lake. Furthermore, it was so delightful to relax and rest in the hot pools, heated by the kernel of the volcano. I felt totally rejuvenated after staying here for a week.
Above, Mount Batur is seen from a far distance from South.
