Sapa is one of the must-see regions of northwest Vietnam as it comprises both natural beauty of lush green mountains and rich, diverse indigenous culture. It presents vast views that stretch into the distance as far as the eye can see. Located so close to China border, at 1.600m altitude, amidst a mountainous region, Sapa offers stunning scenery at every corner of Muong Hoa valley where it dwells. This valley is home to so many villages that belong to a diverse range of ethnic minorities.
I arrived in Sapa on cold, rainy, muddy and foggy days. The visibility sometimes dropped to 20-30m. Most of the time I couldn’t entirely see the extensive valleys that lay in front of me, as the clouds and fog were blocking the view. But it didn’t matter, I was free from all complaints, I was content. Besides the weather was adding a mysterious feel to the place.
In order to explore the region, I hired a guide from Sapa Sisters that is an experienced local initiative that helps those who want to explore the region with indigenous female guides. My guide Su was an energetic young woman who loves her job and respects her culture. Below she talks briefly about herself and Sapa:
On our route we crossed rivers, stopped at many viewpoints and enjoyed the scenery. We passed through many different villages surrounded by beautiful green terraced rice fields. The area is usually explored by trekking but we chose motorbikes instead, due to the cold and rainy weather conditions (and my cracked little toe was preventing me from walking). Su said that it was even better not to walk because of the erosions in some places because of recent excessive rainfall. This was the area where Typhoon Yagi caused great damage 4 months ago.
Su said; because of tourism the region has changed a lot especially in the last 15 years. The number of guesthouses increased, the roads have been improved and multiplied. Even concrete paths for trekkers have been added in between the rice fields. Again, I felt glad to be able to see this area timely, before it loses its authentic identity, culture and nature.
We explored these villages in the area that belong to different ethnic minorities; Y Linh Ho village to H’mong people, Lao Chai village to H’mong people, Ta Van village to Dzay people, Giang Ta Chai village to Dzao people, Su Pan and Ban ho village to Tay people.
There are 6 ethnic groups in Sapa region. H’mong, Dzay, Dzao, Thay, Xa Pho, Vietnamese. H’mong ethnic group is the largest in Sapa. Their flutes are famous, and it is said that men play the flute to attract the attention of women. They know hemp cultivation and weaving well. Embroidery is a common handicraft amongst women.
The Black H’mong have developed a technique of dyeing fabric with beeswax (see below). They draw unique patterns on the fabric and dye them with indigo or other natural dyes.
It is thought that the Tay people were the first group to settle in Vietnam and have been in these lands for over a thousand years. They are currently the largest ethnic group in the country. They are especially recognized from the silver necklaces that women wear. The Red Dao are the second largest group who are known to have migrated from China like the H’mong. They are specialized on medicinal plants. We see some women of this tribe below with their red caps.
During trekking or when you are just wandering around the villages, you see so many local women with their baskets on their back. They try their best to sell some of their handicrafts to you. You can turn this opportunity into a conversation and share some sweet moments with them. Just like the adorable children who always have an interest in you to have fun, laugh and play.
In Sapa region, there are so many types of customs that are still part of life. For example, there is a wide variety of medicinal plants and orchids in the area that are widely used traditionally. For example, women, after giving birth, bathe in water flavored with various plants. Apart from Christianity, Shamanism seems to be the predominant belief. They believe that everything has a spirit. I learn that shamans are usually women. There are also love markets. Still continuing to a lesser extent, people go to these markets to find a partner. It is believed that marriage is the beginning of a new life.
Young men’s rites of passage, harvest praying, rain praying, offering prayers to divine spirits of heaven and earth, forest god ceremony, vibrant circle dances, celebrating the spirit of the new year, expressing gratitude to the ancestors, sweeping ghost festival, singing folk songs and lullabies are some examples of other customs.
The other highlight of Sapa is Fansipan Mountain (3.147m) that is the highest of Vietnam and all of Indochina, (Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, Myanmar, Malaysia) It is possible to climb here from Sapa with a 1-2 day trekking, or you can reach the summit by funicular and cable car.
To climb above the sea of clouds was utterly exciting. While everywhere in Sapa was covered in fog, I was happy to meet the sun. Both my bones and my heart warmed immediately. The view of the vastness of the horizon was breathtaking. The peaks of the mountains were rising from the sea of clouds.
On the summit of Fansipan, there is a series of temples, giant statues and spiritual spaces. Although they are new, they look impressive with their originality and traditional architecture.
The gigantic Buddha and the Mountain Divinity (Avalokiteshvara) statues are dazzling. They greet the universe from above the sea of clouds and embody with great magnificence what they symbolize. Let me mention more about the spirit of Bodhisattva and Avalokiteshvara which are highly referred symbols in Vietnam and in the world of Buddhism. These symbols have valuable messages to bring to us. A Bodhisattva refers to anyone who has generated Bodhicitta, a spontaneous wish and compassionate mind to attain enlightenment for the benefit of all sentient beings. They hold the capacity to see the potential for awakening in everyone and aspire to relieve the suffering of all sentient (conscious) beings. Bodhisattvas express themselves fearlessly and never give up their compassion.
Avalokiteshvara is the Bodhisattva of compassion and benevolence. It is male in Indian Buddhist texts, while in East Asia it is female. Avalokiteshvara is a pivotal figure in Mahayana Buddhism (including Zen), celebrated for his/her ability to hear the cries of sentient beings and provide them help. Therefore in Fansipan, she is placed on top of a peak, facing vast openness in front of her where she can easily hear those who call out for help. So that she can bless them in order to release their suffering.
Inside the gigantic Buddha statue, there is an inner chamber that holds an altar. This was a great spot to do my closing ceremony for my 7-month adventure that was about to be completed in a few days. Feeling the strong earth beneath my feet, and the spaciousness in my looking, I expressed my gratitude to life for all the profound experiences in Indonesia, Thailand and Vietnam. Closing my eyes, I watched the flow of all these months. Oh God, how gracefully you hold, protect and embrace me. You teach me always with compassion. I am connected to you always with affection. I couldn’t hold back my tears.
I opened my arms and my heart to the new era that was about to arrive so soon. Pure intentions were revealing themselves and washing over my being; “Letting go of all the limiting assumptions, I am keeping my vision as vast as possible and seeing the wide potentiality surrounding me.”
“Light me up
Fill me up with your light
Empty me of all nonsense
Bring inspiration, support, magic,
And presence to bear
To open to the beautiful high notes.
Here we lift ourselves to envision and imagine,
Allowing heaven to use our light
For the highest good for all beings.”
~ An invocation from Jeannie Zandi
