Skip to main content

Author: Deniz Seyrek

SOUTHERN BALİ / ULUWATU – CANGGU

Written by Deniz Seyrek on . Posted in Destinations, Indonesia. No Comments on SOUTHERN BALİ / ULUWATU – CANGGU

During my early weeks in Bali, the notion of fear was the main ingredient of my contemplations. Even though sometimes its energy was overwhelming, I needed to open myself and befriend with the fear through letting it be. And at the same time, accept the situations when I can’t be able to let it be. I was waking up to the reality that this life is not an improvement project. And the real learning was inside every moment that comes with its unique quality, whether pleasant or unpleasant.

These words were bringing me the guidance I needed. They are the words of Eric Baret, a spiritual teacher of Tantric tradition and non-duality.

“There are no mistakes in life. You didn’t come here to strengthen your life. You are not here to remove blocks or accomplish something. You don’t have to perfect yourself. You are perfect just the way you are. Be kind to yourself. You are not a battle field. You are not a ground for self-mastery, self-improvement. You are here to serve. Just be in tune with your functioning. There is nothing deeper than listening, it is what you naturally are. Listen to what is. You have nothing to fear.”

What is remarkable for me the most about Southern Bali is its coastline and the intimate connection between the land and the mighty ocean. There are so many breathtaking white sand beaches and deep cliffs meeting the ocean. The view of the boundless ocean is mesmerizing.

Standing at the south tip of Bali, Uluwatu is one of the outstanding towns that is home to the most beautiful beaches and towering limestone cliffs. Some of the beaches openly stretch out along the coastline and some of them are secluded and hidden behind the tall cliffs.

Examples for some exceptional beaches and cliffs I really adored are; Balangan view point, Dreamland beach, Padang Padang beach, Suluban beach, Karang Boma cliff, Nyang Nyang beach. Because of its vibrant turquoise waters and perfect waves, Uluwatu -along with Canggu- is a well-known surfing destination among surfers from all over the world.

Uluwatu hosts a significant spiritual icon, Uluwatu Temple (see below). Located at the edge of the southernmost peninsula of Bali, it is believed to protect the island against evil. This little Hindu temple is based at the top of a breathtaking cliff, 70 metres up the ocean level. It is fascinating to watch the strong waves and the picturesque sunset from top of this cliff. Uluwatu temple is also called the Monkey Temple as it is inhabited by long-tailed macaques that are notorious for snatching visitors’ belongings. So, watch out when you are exploring the temple and its surrounding. 

Even though it is a popular touristic activity I recommend you to watch Kecak dance performance at the temple. (see below) Kecak dance is originally a trance ritual and it’s currently a form of Balinese Hindu dance and music drama based on the story of Ramayana (ancient Hindu epic). This outdoor performance has the spectacular sunset for background and the costumes, make-ups, dances and music are very impressive indeed.

Performing arts is an inseparable element of Balinese culture. It is a fusion of dance, drama and music with rich symbolism. Storytelling is performed through dances that are dynamic, angular, and intensely expressive with diversegestures of fingers, hands, head, and eyes. The costumes, make-ups and the masks are highly impressive.

Gamelan music is one of the ingredients of Balinese performing arts. It is the traditional ensemble music of some of the islands of Indonesia, including Bali. The orchestra is made up predominantly of percussive instruments that produces repetitive polyphonic and hypnotic sounds. This art form is still widely respected, being commonly played in many traditional and religious ceremonies. Below you can listen to a small section of this performance.

Ritualistic dance dramas usually involve 3 revered icons of Balinese culture and mythology; Barong, Rangda and Hanuman. (Two of them can be seen below) Barong is the king of the spirits, symbol of health and good fortune. He is the leader of the good and enemy of Rangda. Rangda is the warrior goddess, often regarded as the incarnation of evil. But in fact, she is revered in the village temples as a protector against evil. The battle between Barong and Rangda represent the eternal battle between good and evil. Hanuman is the monkey king, Hindu god, symbol of strength, courage and devotion.

Speaking of symbolism, I have to mention the force, the inner guidance that accompanied me in all of my travels in Indonesia. 3 months in Indonesia contained so many joyful and blissful experience as well as the unpleasant and difficult ones. This time life was reminding me to be courageous, encouraging me to step into the fear and opening me to learn to see everything from the standpoint of unity. The way was through bringing the light of consciousness upon every experience. Experience and knowing of the experience, form and formless, movement and silence were diffusing into each other. The outcome of this union is Love. The cause of this union is Love.

What is equivalent to this inner guidance in symbolism is the Hindu God Hanuman. He is the symbol of fearlessness, courage, strength and heroism. He is also a powerful expression of love and compassion. He is the embodiment of devotion (Bhakti). He carries in his heart Rama and Sita, the two irreducible dimensions of our existence, like being and knowing, human and the divine, the sun and moon, earth and sky. These two aspects are in eternal love with each other, intimately devoted to the divine union.

Let’s move on to another destination in southern Bali, to Canggu. There are other widely known towns in the south like Kuta, Sanur and Seminyak, but Canggu is way more to my taste as it has a unique feel to it compared to other typical touristic spots. Canggu is a pretty cool town where you can experience a mixture of vibrant social life and laid-back escapes from crowds. Yes it’s busy and changing rapidly due to urban development, yes tourism is not based on local culture, but there are beautiful things to be said about its vibe and its location.

There is a warm bohemian vibe in Canggu. It hosts ultra-cool organic cafes, vegan restaurants, beach bars, design boutiques and yoga centers. Any time of the day, you can enjoy different tastes and charming atmospheres at these places. Maybe these are the reason why there is a remarkable amount of digital nomads and a sense of community here. Canggu has a popularity also among surfers and ocean lovers.

What I loved the most about Canggu was to have long walks and hang around at its marvelous beaches. Gazing at the immensity of the ocean I was feeling my heart was expanding. It was relaxing to watch the strong waves lining up one after another and the surfers enjoying some of Bali’s best waves. The sunsets were astonishingly beautiful and they may be the most impressive ones I have ever watched in my entire life. During the sunsets, how delightful it was to see the intertwining of the blue of the ocean and the pink of the sky.

There is a chain of sea temples that surround Bali. Each of them was established within the eyesight of the next. Located just a few kilometers in the west side of Canggu, there is one of the seven main sea temples, Tanah Lot. Tanah Lot is a Hindu pilgrimage temple famous for its unique offshore setting. It impressively stands on top of the rocks, strongly holds its space amidst constantly crashing waves.

NORTHEAST BALİ / AMED – KINTAMANI

Written by Deniz Seyrek on . Posted in Destinations, Indonesia. No Comments on NORTHEAST BALİ / AMED – KINTAMANI

During the days when I started to feel overwhelmed by the business of Bali, Amed came into my route in the right timing. It was time to explore northeast parts of the island that were said to be remote and secluded. Yes, it was true, I loved the ambience and the nature of Amed quite much that I stayed there much longer than I expected.

The way I travel is changing over the years. Although it always filled me with enthusiasm, I visit relatively fewer places now. I find myself slower, stay at the places longer and then move forward. I enjoy to give enough time to listen and take in what I experience. Traveling is a like a full-time job. Plannings, preparations, visits, activities, giving decisions, finding out the ways to face an issue in an unfamiliar environment, arranging places to stay and eat, organizing the best ways for transportation (plane, train, bus, bike etc.), make preparations for visa procedures, learn all the new paradigms of being in a new country, consider the next day, next week, next month… Additionally there is a lot of stimulation on the road. Therefore, one needs to advance the art of listening and feeling their heart in order to proceed in the direction of their truth.

Amed is a cute little fishing village that is an excellent blend of nature, local culture and laid-back beach vibes. Compared to other touristic destinations in Bali, Amed has less hustle and bustle around. You can relax on the beach all day long, swim in the crystal clear water and enjoy the calm and modest ambiance. On its coastline there are several beaches (e.g., Lipah beach) that are parts of other humble little fisherman settlements. The shores look very colorful with the wooden outrigger boats called Jukung.

During my time here, I mostly stayed at Jemeluk beach that is so close to the centre of Amed. It is a black sand beach with lots of fishing boats, warungs (local restaurants) and inexpensive simple accommodations. It is well known for the beauty of its submarine. It was such an amazing feeling to be so close to the rich underwater habitat so almost every day I was spending time in the water snorkeling. And at nights I was enjoying to hear the mellow sounds of the waves during my sleep.

Bali is part of the Coral Triangle, the area with the highest biodiversity of marine species, especially fish, turtles and corals. Along the entire coast of Amed there are reefs so without the need of a boat or a tour, you can access them easily just by swimming from the beach. Amed has become well known as a diving area. Free diving, Scuba diving and snorkeling are the most favorite activities in the village. You can read more (and see some pictures) on the submarine of this region, in the other essay entitled; ‘Gili Meno – Gili Air’.

Picturesque view of Mount Agung stands in the background of the scenery in Amed. Mount Agung is an active volcano and the highest mountain in Bali. Its majesty is clearly seen from the shores of Amed and you can feel its powerful presence from there. Below you will see the stunning view of the mountain during the beautiful moments of the sunset.

Maybe it is also a good time to give little hints about the transportation in and around Bali. There is almost no (or very very few) public transport on the islands. Motorbikes are the most common vehicles in the traffic. You can rent one or use motorbike taxis which is the easiest way. But unfortunately, there is no motorbike taxis in some of the islands where you have no choice but to use a regular taxi and that may end up not being very reasonable in price. I discovered a useful way to journey between different towns or destinations and chose to rent a daily taxi with its driver if I need to cover longer distances. I was sharing the journey and its cost with other travelers and the driver was taking us to the destinations one by one according to our request. It was very comfortable indeed to explore the routes I myself was designing due to my interests.

I discovered northeast Bali by this way. Coming to the worth visiting places in northeast Bali; Virgin beach (above) is spectacular with its white sand, crystal clear turquoise water and tropical trees. Ujung Water Palace is remarkable with its beautiful landscape, ponds and architecture. Amlapura (below) is worth to stop by for its vibrant and colorful traditional food market. Sidemen village can be visited for its lush green rice fields, valleys and scenic view of Mount Agung. Active volcanos and the strong ocean are not familiar to me. I find it very interesting to see road signs here and there in Bali that shows volcano and tsunami evacuation routes.

Located on the slopes of Mount Agung, Besakih mother temple (below) is also in this region, that is the most important, largest, and holiest temple of Balinese Hinduism. It is an extensive complex of 23 temples, built on six levels, terraced up the slope. Because of its significance I went to this temple with some expectations. I was disappointed at the end of my visit and there I realized more clearly that I didn’t feel any spiritual connection or deepening in any of the temples in Bali. They may be stunning regarding their design, architecture, landscape and atmosphere but to me they don’t evoke a sense of sacredness. I found the divinity in Bali in the elements of nature, the rivers, ocean, jungles, or in the tears of a child.

One last destination I have to mention about northeast Bali is Kintamani that is the village settled by the crater lake of the active volcano Mount Batur. Located at 1,500m above sea level ensures a relaxed and pleasant climate and clean mountain air, making it an ideal escape from the coastal heat. Because of the volcanic quality the soil is rich so the fields are commonly used for agriculture.

Along with its peaceful and quiet vibe, people come here for two main reasons. One of them is the morning hike up to the summit of Mount Batur and the other is the hot springs. The hostel I chose to stay had an amazing location that offers a stunning panorama with the active Batur volcano and its serene lake. Furthermore, it was so delightful to relax and rest in the hot pools, heated by the kernel of the volcano. I felt totally rejuvenated after staying here for a week.

Above, Mount Batur is seen from a far distance from South.

NUSA LEMBONGAN – NUSA PENIDA

Written by Deniz Seyrek on . Posted in Destinations, Indonesia. No Comments on NUSA LEMBONGAN – NUSA PENIDA

The Nusa Islands -Lembongan, Penida and Ceningan- are a trio of tropical paradises on the east side of Bali. Just a short boat ride away, they are the closest and most accessible islands from Bali. Each island has its unique vibe, some has a vibrant life similar to Bali, while others offer a more serene escape.

During long-term traveling, one can miss the routine and familiar aspects of a settled life. When you are not on the road, it is quite the opposite, you miss the movement and long for wandering in the unknown. I have a life that goes back and forth between settling down and setting out. Moving between retreating in and opening up, between silence and polyphony. This is the song of my soul. And now it was obviously the time to explore the blessings of life on this part of our beautiful planet. My aspiration was to travel around the islands where the Indian and the Pacific Ocean meet.

It was the perfect decision to escape to these neighboring islands as the hustle and bustle of Ubud was just enough even after a week. I was more than happy from the moment I set my foot on Nusa Lembongan. It welcomed with its soft breeze and beautiful nature. I don’t know you but laid-back vibes and humble ambiances are my favourite which Lembongan offered during my whole stay here.

The whole shore of this little island is worth to see. You can enjoy the scenery from different directions while sitting at the wide variety of cute little restaurants and cafes at the beachfront. You can easily see groups of dolphins playing in the open sea. The waves are strong especially at the south part of the island and the tidal range is remarkable. And don’t miss to catch the stunning sunsets at the little bay called Devil’s Tears while massive waves crash the rocks and join the scenery.

The color of the crystal-clear waters and the brightness of white sand were charming that I wasn’t able to take my eyes from them. Beaches, filled with so many different types of seashells and dead corals, are indicating the rich diversity of the submarine. These islands are perfect spots for diving and snorkeling. You can join daily boat tours and experience snorkeling at different bays. You can also see some advanced surfers surfing on the south tip of Ceningan island.

West side of the island has the harbor and white sand beaches, while the lush green side, the north is covered with mangrove forest. East is the connection side to the other 2 islands Ceningan and Penida. Whereas boat ride is the way to go to Penida, Yellow Bridge is the pass to Ceningan island.

Nusa Lembongan has a very charming and humble local village vibe. Tourism and local culture is closely intertwined. Seeing the locals in their authentic lives interests me much. That’s why I loved to walk through the neighborhoods and watch the children flying kites and the villagers farming seaweed. Lembongan holds a rich cultural heritage of seaweed farming. As this tradition is widely carried out, we can see so many seaweed farms at the southeast shallow waters of the island.

Before passing onto the next island let me tell a little about the Indonesian cousine. To me, it is best experienced at the Warungs that are the small traditional restaurants, tiny shops, or kiosks selling all sorts of local food. Giving you a cheaper alternative, they make you feel more at home in Indonesia. But I have to warn you to be careful, because of lack of freshwater and having no fridge to store meat, hygiene is sometimes an issue at warungs.

Indonesian cuisine often has rich flavors, most often described as savory, hot and spicy. It varies by region and has many different influences from Middle East, India, China or Polinesia. Some examples for the best vegetarian dishes are; Nasi Goreng (fried rice), Mie Goreng (fried noodle), Gado-gado (boiled veggies with peanut sauce), vegetable curries, Cap Cay (mixed vegetable dish) and tempeh and tofu.

Nusa Penida is the other neighboring island of Bali and the biggest in 3 of the Nusa islands. Because of its hilly landscape, the island is more rugged. There are less people, less settlements and less tourism and it is filled with jungles so it feels wilder. Infrastructure of the roads are poor therefore car or motorbike ride feels so bumpy and it takes so much longer time to get from one place to another. By a whole day trip, I barely explored the west and southwest of the island. It was worth it because I saw some of the most fascinating and unforgettable landscapes in my entire life!

Island is outlined by breathtaking towering limestone cliffs. I sometimes couldn’t believe my eyes when looking down from the top of the majestic rocks walls. The scenery was astonishing. Union of the immense ocean and the monumental cliffs create a mystical aura. Above you can see the vast cliffs of Kelingking beach overlooking the deep blue ocean.

Apart from Kelingking beach, some other spots worth to visit on the island are; Broken beach and Crystal Bay beach (both seen above). This island is the place where you can be mesmerized by the underwater world. Surrounded by azure waters, Nusa Penida covers a wide area of diving locations that are home also for the manta rays.

GILI MENO – GILI AIR

Written by Deniz Seyrek on . Posted in Destinations, Indonesia. No Comments on GILI MENO – GILI AIR

During my days in these small islands between the Indian and Pacific Ocean, I was tested by a bacteriosis that put me in bed and slowed me down for 2 weeks. I had plenty of time to contemplate on the strength and the resilience of life in the context of spirituality and existence.

Just how the knowing (consciousness) is sublime with its sharpness, brightness and clarity, the creation is just as majestic as that. How can it be otherwise as they are the ultimate pair to one another. So the power of creation is as magnificent as the brilliance of consciousness. Even though we are limited and impermanent, we carry a vast potential of existence within us. Every created being is granted such an essence.

We know this from the ants or bees that guard their nest and colony or from the mothers that protect their child at the cost of their lives. We know this from the baby turtles that race to the ocean or from the flower that blooms in the snow. What an intelligence and potency! This understanding enables me to see life with new eyes and wonderment.

Let’s return to the travel journal.. Gili Islands (Meno, Air and Trawangan), a trio of tiny coral islands, are located just off the northwest coast of Lombok Island. They have everything what a proper exotic island have; white sand beaches, crystal clear waters, and vibrant marine life. What is so beautiful and unique about them is that they are really tiny. In each of them you can cycle from one edge to the other one in half an hour. No cars or motorbikes, but only bicycles and horse-drawn carriages (see below) are used for transportation.

Gili Trawangan is the biggest and the most commercialized one. Gili Meno is the smallest and the quietest whereas Gili Air is a perfect blend of the other two. Each island is a quick boat ride away from each other. I skipped Trawangan, stayed for a couple of days in Meno but took my time and enjoyed Air, my favorite one, for couple of weeks.

All of the three islands have beautiful views of Mount Agung and Mount Rinjani. Mount Agung, Bali’s highest volcano is on the west side. And on the east side where Lombok Island is located, the second highest volcano of whole Indonesia, Mount Rinjani is seen. Some cloudy days block the view but on the clear days the views of these majestic mountains are so impressive, especially during the sunsets.

The most distinct quality of Gili Meno is its tranquility. The whole coastline is calm and peaceful with some cafes, restaurants and warungs that lined up alongside the beaches. Almost all of them are in the form of traditional bungalows that blend with the island’s natural beauty. The main income of the small local community comes from tourism, coconut plantation and fishing.

Having long walks along the beaches, just sitting at a random spot to watch the horizon or the sunset, writing my diary at the humble little cafes by the ocean and to lay down under the shining stars on the dark nights were my favorite activities on Gili Meno.

Gili Air has got a bit of everything, the liveliness and also the solitude. In spite of the vibrant potential of the downtown and the beachfront, you can still find silent niches and enjoy your isolation. The main street that goes from the port towards the center of the island has many different shops and guesthouses. There are so many options for dining. Cheaper local warungs can be found inside the island whereas design restaurants and bars are lined up on the beachfront.

Wandering the sandy roads along the shore is a great way to get to know the island. Just after a few minutes walk outside the central road, you reach more local areas and little neighborhoods where women chat with each other in front of their houses, the children play their favourite games or men rest at the wooden platforms after a long and busy day at the fields.

I so much enjoyed the cozy atmosphere of my hostel. I loved to sleep in the dorm with no windows, the only layer between me and the nature of the island was the thin mosquito net. And what a blessing it was to wake up to the day with the songs of the tropical birds.

I saved the best for last, that is the abundance and the beauty of marine life and coral formations of Gili islands. Just pick up your snorkel, swim a little from the shore and start snorkeling on the beautiful reefs where you encounter the fascinating and colorful submarine. Below you will see the underwater sculpture called ‘Nest’ placed close to the shore of Gili Meno. The expectations are that the statues will turn into a fully established reef with a lot of fish finding food.

Seeing all those fish inevitably evokes the sense of admiration for the charm of the creation and for the intelligence of the universe. There were so many different types of fish, cute clownfish, the ones with stripes, spots, geometric patterns, shiny colors, the ones that have eyes on top or eyes on the side, the ones that are long and thin like a sword or twisted like snakes and a lot more.. There were fish that travel alone peacefully and those that travel in groups. Some of them were looking careless, anxious, excited or even enlightened! It was funny to watch the lively ones that chase or flirt with one another. Not to mention, the playful turtles. All had unique attitudes according to their own nature.

This was the first time I had met such a rich underwater world. The diversity of the corals, their varied forms, colors, sizes and textures blew my mind. I was simply watching the movie of the submarine with curiosity and awe. Streaming through to the depths of the water, sun rays were creating a sacred ambiance. Stillness of the crystal clear waters fills my soul with wonderment. Under the water, one forgets who she is, where she comes from, what she is up to or why she is there. The mind dissolves in the silence of this beauty.

LOMBOK

Written by Deniz Seyrek on . Posted in Destinations, Indonesia. No Comments on LOMBOK

The rewards of being devoted to live a conscious life are priceless. Waking up to reality is always nourished by asking the right questions and by being open to meaningful contemplations for spiritual ripening. It is more and more dawning on me that the path is not through searching for what we yearn for but by letting go of what is not in service for meeting our true nature, till the end… Here comes a significant reminder of my teacher Adyashanti;

“Very easily and simply ask yourself; Can I let go just a little bit more? Don’t even try, just ask; Can I let go just a little bit more? As you experience the depth of consciousness, you notice that all the more conditioned tendencies -wanting, not wanting, liking, disliking, agreeing, disagreeing- feel more and more unconditioned, less and less move around. You start to experience the unconditioned nature of your own being.”

Now let’s move on to the last neighboring island, Lombok. Located in the east of Bali, Lombok is a medium size island that offers tranquil experiences in its natural and authentic environment. Although tourism is lively, the island is not as crowded as Bali so it is quieter and feels way more relaxed. There are huge areas of pristine forests and landscapes that are untouched. And the local culture can be observed more easily and clearly.

Up until I arrived Lombok, I spent quite much time at the coastline of many islands. Although Lombok (especially south) has a lot to offer in terms of pristine beaches, here I wanted to be far from touristic destinations and explore especially the nature, local culture and village life. I started from the north parts and visited 2 waterfalls close to Senaru that are; Sendang Gila and Tiu Kelep waterfalls.

In order to reach these waterfalls, you need to walk through the jungles from the last point that the car leaves you. There were many different types of plants, coconut trees and monkeys in these dense jungles. I saw gigantic trees that were almost 40m tall and the leaves of the ferns were extraordinarily huge.

It was breathtaking to see the waterfalls powerfully falling from dozens of meters down the valleys. As I got closer to the water, the strong breeze, coolness and freshness it creates and the high sound it makes was vitalizing all of the senses. I remember myself laughing and laughing with pleasure of seeing the striking beauty of nature. I felt sincerely grateful for the water for bringing life to each and every little corner of our planet.

Mount Rinjani, Indonesia’s second-highest (active) volcano, is on this island. So many trekkers come here to climb its summit. From the top you can see so many panoramic views including the crater lakes and the dense forests at its base.

At the foothills of Rinjani, at around 1200-1600m altitudes, there is this little town called Sembalun. Don’t miss to stop by the view point here and rejoice in the stunning 180-degree view. Because of the volcano the soil here is abundant, very suitable for agriculture. The most common growing crops are; strawberry, onion, garlic, chili pepper, tobacco, coffee, black pepper, cacao and vanilla.

Tetebatu was the main reason I was in Lombok for. It is a scenic rural area off the beaten track. Located around 700-800 m above sea level, it is the home of big palm trees, vibrant green rice fields and black monkeys.

I really enjoyed trekking around the village, amidst the rice terraces. Spending some quiet days in the lush green nature of Tetebatu was really medicinal, healing my body and soul.

The area is just few kilometers away from the southern boundary of Mount Rinjani National Park. Therefore the scenery along the trails was spectacular with the breathtaking mountain panorama of the volcano.

It was the time of rice harvest so there were so many farmers working in the fields.

The town almost seemed untouched by tourism. There are some cute and humble homestays in-between the rice paddies. The warmth of the house holders make you feel home. They are so open to share their life, talk about their traditions and culture. I stayed at the guesthouse of İka and Egi, the beautiful couple whose hospitality and friendliness I will never forget. We cooked and ate together, we had some expeditions around the area and had delicious conversations on many different topics on life in general. After spending 5 days together we were in tears of gratitude for sharing the blessings of life together.

Below you can see the humble neighborhood I stayed during my days in Tetebatu.

Tetebatu is also a hub for getting to know about the authentic local experiences and culture as it is so close to some villages that still preserve their handicrafts traditions. So many traditional handicraft artisans are spreaded throughout the villages in this area. Sarong weaving is one of the artisanships of the local culture here and it has been inherited for so many generations. Sarong is a covering worn by both men and women as a garment for everyday life and ceremonies. Handwoven sarongs require a long and complicated process that also includes the dying of the threads with natural colors. At the related village there are almost thousand women working as a weaver.

Bamboo weaving is the other tradition of the culture. Wide range of products are manufactured such as baskets, boxes, bags, etc. The young bamboo shoots are consumed as food but 2-year-old bamboo culms are used for weaving, and when the bamboo gets much older it is used in construction. When it comes to the local handicrafts, pottery has to be mentioned. It was surprising to see the primitive methods and tools used for the production of pottery objects.

The Sasak people live mainly on the island of Lombok. They are related to the Balinese in language and in ancestry, but they are predominantly Muslim while the Balinese are predominantly Hindu. Even Lombok is called the island of thousand mosques as Islam is widely practiced.

People are happy in Indonesia. I have never seen people complain here. Everything seems to be fine for them. Once in a while I love to ask people if they are happy. I have always received the same response; they look me in the eye with surprise of hearing such a nonsense question and reply; “Of course I am happy!”

This innocence may be also because they haven’t been caught up in the great modernization or globalization trend that has a great potential to take away the most precious virtues and deeply felt spiritual realizations from human beings. Although the unfavorable outcome of developing tourism unfortunately continues to grow, people of Lombok still preserve their traditional lifestyles, daily rituals and authentic heritage. Most importantly the deeper knowledge of being not separate but One with every living being that deserve the highest respect and love.

HANOI

Written by Deniz Seyrek on . Posted in Destinations, Vietnam. No Comments on HANOI

Mysteriously, without me planning it, I live in harmony with the cycles of the moon. It was again the full moon when I was leaving a country and heading to the next. My last night in Thailand was the night of the religious celebration Loy Krathong, the Festival of Lights. As it was the closing of one chapter in Thailand and the beginning of the new in Vietnam, my feelings were colored by the gratitude of being blessed with the dear friendship of Thailand. I was also feeling melancholy and sadness because of leaving the lands I have been wandering around for a while. Releasing the candle and flowers onto the river, I honored the blessings of life and wished for our darkness to meet the light.

Saying okay to life’s unexpected turns enable us to surrender to the uncontrollable nature of creation. Surrendering may melt away the sense of the doer. When the doer ceases to exist, then it feels a little bit more like the whole ride is being ridden. Everything is just okay and complete as the way it is because there is no conflict arising in the absence of the doer. What is left for me is to listen to the spirit of time -which is always now, and sense into the waves which shapes my being. This is resting in the boundless womb of the Mother and embracing profound happiness. Then a more refined and clearer seeing emerges, recognizing the greatness in the smallest and the exceptional in the most ordinary.

My travels in Vietnam started from the capital Hanoi. Hanoi is a very crowded city with a chaotic traffic due to the great number of motorbikes. As Vietnam is among the top 10 most visited countries in the world, tourists contribute to the density of life in Hanoi as well. Never ending horns add on the chaos of the streets that has kind of an order to it though. So, Hanoi is crowded, chaotic, crazy, noisy and dirty but very attractive!

There is a kind of a distinctive beauty here. Westernization or modernization are transforming every place they touch, so most places in the world start to be similar to each other, losing their identity. But Hanoi -or Vietnam in general- is not really like this. When I am in a place that has its own unique flavor and authenticity, that is when my soul rejoices.

In Hanoi I always stay in the center, around the old town. I really love it! Here, life still bears many traces of those times from the previous century. Without needing to be renovated, some buildings or streets are just there as if time has stopped. Buildings are old, plasters are peeling, walls are cracked, paints are old and yet they offer an unusual beauty.

The ambience on the street, the vibes of the daily life, authentic architecture, the appearance of the people, all the little details of local living come together to create the unique quality of Hanoi. I enjoy observing people, especially the Vietnamese women with their traditional conical bamboo hats, selling fruits on the streets.

Hanoi -including some other parts of Vietnam- feels nostalgic. Seeing so many people in their traditional Vietnamese clothes plays a part in this feeling. People love to dress like that and have their photo taken either by the peaceful environment of the lakeside or in front of an old house or a temple. I love watching their cheerful mood.

The lake right in the heart of the city is very relaxing. It’s beautiful landscape is decorated with so many colorful flowers and old trees. It is one of the best spots to observe typical Vietnamese city life, families, children, elders and lovers. When I was sitting at one of the benches by the lake, this adorable young girl below approached me, asking; “If you don’t mind, can I sit with you? Maybe we can have a chat so that I can improve my English?” We had an amazing conversation and unexpectedly a deep sharing. When we were saying goodbye to each other, we were very grateful for this encounter.

Every street around the old town is unique and beautiful with all kinds of touristic or local restaurants, cafes or shops. To have an overview I recommend you to climb up to the roof terrace of a building and watch the area from there. To me, Saint Joseph Cathedral is one of the beautiful hubs of the old town. The square in front of the cathedral is not just the meeting point of friends but also a place to sit and observe life in Hanoi.

Vietnam is a former French colony. Therefore, French influence is clearly seen in architecture, food, or cloths. But the language is only of its kind, like the other Asian countries. Vietnamese language is based on tones. As if it consists only of single syllable sounds. There are so subtle sound accents which makes it really hard to pronounce. It is so funny that when I try to say something, I say something completely different!

Water puppetry is almost a thousand years old tradition emerged during the entertainments of the farmers inside the rice paddies. You can watch a performance of this tradition at Thang Long Theater every day. On the show there are sections about agriculture, animals, birds, buffalos, rice harvest or simple aspects of life. Also, the dance of 4 sacred animals; dragon, unicorn, turtle and phoenix take place in the play while a traditional Vietnamese orchestra performs the background music.

Vietnam Museum of Ethnology is one of the must-see places in Hanoi where you can have a glimpse of the rich diversity of 54 different ethnic groups living in Vietnam. The map above shows this diversity with colours. Some examples to these ethnic groups are; Austronesians (they look like native Australians), Thais (those who came from China and settled in Southeast Asia), Austroasiatics (a mixture of Australian natives and Asians), Sino-Tibetans (those who came south from the Himalayas), Viet, Khmer, and many more.

It is a very impressive museum where you can view diversed elements of Vietnamese culture such as; customs, handicrafts, agriculture, clothing, weaving, metal and wood works, hand tools, daily items, etc. Various natural building examples of different ethnicities are also exhibited in the museum’s large gardens.

Coming to the amazing Vietnamese food which may be my favourite cuisine. Vietnamese recipes use fresh ingredients like lemongrass, ginger, mint, coriander, cinnamon, bird’s eye chili, lime, basil etc. There are not much dairy or oil, but herbs and vegetables instead so it is so suitable for vegans and vegetarians. The cuisine is almost always naturally gluten-free as many of the dishes are rice-based instead of wheat-based.

Some examples of these delicious food are; Pho (noodle soup), vegetable noodles, vegetable rice, spring and summer rolls, Banh Mi (sandwich influenced by French baguettes), various dips, stir fried, boiled or raw vegetables, etc. Coffee is also a significant part of daily life.

Starting from Hanoi, I would be traveling throughout Vietnam for 2 months, visiting Tam Coc, Lan Ha and Ha Long Bay, Thai Nguyen, Hue, Hoi An, Ha Giang and Sapa on my route. You can read through all of these destinations in the other essays of mine. I feel like Vietnam became my favorite country in Southeast Asia. Here I feel the sense of belonging so intimately.

After 2 months of travels in Vietnam and 7 months of travels in Southeast Asia, I would be returning back to Türkiye for a while. A lot of things fit into this adventure, leaving so precious imprints upon my soul; new discoveries, experiences, blessings, encounters, friendships, romance, melancholy, sickness, accident, fear and many more. If I say otherwise please remind me that, living my life as a traveler is the most meaningful and profound way my heart is captivated to live.

TAM COC – LAN HA & HA LONG BAY

Written by Deniz Seyrek on . Posted in Destinations, Vietnam. No Comments on TAM COC – LAN HA & HA LONG BAY

Tam Coc is in a spectacular landscape of limestone karst peaks rising up amid bright green rice fields and beautiful wetlands. Located within the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Trang An Landscape Complex, Tam Coc is a harmonious blend of natural beauty and cultural significance.

This serene destination is surrounded by meandering rivers that is best explored by boat. Good news all the boats are engineless and eco-friendly. One of the two main points from where you can go on a boat ride is the lake at the town center of Tam Coc. The river winds its way in a picturesque nature, through lush rice paddies and emerald-green waters covered with pink lotus flowers.

The other point to take a boat ride is Trang An. I guess this was one of the most exceptional adventures I experienced throughout whole Vietnam. Trang An boat tour takes you through rivers and lakes surrounded by dramatic karst mountains that rise majestically on both sides, creating a serene and surreal environment.

The boat ride combines natural beauty and cultural authenticity. Along the way, the paddle boat pass through river caves and stop by several ancient Buddhist temples. I haven’t been there yet but many things reminded me of China here, as Vietnam is a former Chinese colony. We can recognize this in the architecture of the temples, the aesthetics of the compositions and in the alphabets of the texts written on the buildings.

In the beginning I found it strange that I didn’t see Buddha statues here because I was assuming that the majority of Vietnam was Buddhist. But then I learned that in Vietnam, Folk Religion takes precedence as the largest religious belief system. I saw statues of commanders or emperors on the altars. I guess these people are greatly respected for their services for the liberation from colonisation. 

Some parts of this boat ride pass through caves, formed over thousands of years by the river’s flow through the limestone mountains. Intricate colorful formations hanging from the roof of the cave look fascinating. One of the caves we went through was almost one kilometer long.

Looking at the huge cliffs, dense forest and the tranquility of the river, I was amazed by this geological wonder. I enjoyed the silence of this natural beauty. The only things that broke the silence was the gentle splash of oars. It was so peaceful.

Hang Mua (Lying Dragon) Peak (below) is another must-see place in the area. In order to reach the peak, you need to climb up the stone staircase with 500 steps carved on the mountainside. The viewpoint on top has a breathtaking 360-degree panorama, viewing deep valleys, winding rivers, towering limestone karsts, lush rice paddies and local villages.

The stairs are adorned with dragon statues, adding a touch of cultural significance and a sense of mystery.

Dating back to 15th century, Bich Dong Pagoda (below) is a masterpiece of Vietnamese Buddhist architecture. It offers a blend of spiritual significance, architectural beauty, and beautiful natural landscapes. Climbing up the stairs takes you to a shrine which is partly built into a limestone cliff face. I saw an old nun inside the shrine chanting. The spiritual atmosphere was very mystical.

Bai Dinh Pagoda (below) is the largest Buddhist complex in the country. It is really a huge area, so it may take a full day to visit the whole complex. The scale of almost everything was so large as well, such as; temples, roads, stairs, corridors, squares, pools, buildings, Buddha statues, etc.

I really liked Tam Coc area and stayed here for a week. I enjoyed its peaceful laid-back atmosphere surrounded by natural beauties. Everywhere is flat in Tam Coc, therefore cycling is the best way to explore the area. It is always possible to take a break at a cute little cafe in the midst of rice fields or by the central lake where lots of boats line up to take the next customer to the excursion on the river.

Now I’d like to take you to a similar geological wonder with limestone karst peaks. But this time we call them islets or islands because they are located on the ocean! I am talking about the legendary beauty Ha Long Bay and her sister Lan Ha Bay.

In order to reach the area, I first stayed at Cat Ba Island overnight and next day took the daily cruise from here. You can either explore this region on a daily excursion or depending on your budget you can go on a cruise for 2-3 days. I knew that Ha Long Bay was already so popular, so I chose Lan Ha Bay instead as it is less visited and quieter. Nevertheless, the tour also took us to some parts of Ha Long Bay as these bays are closely intertwined.

Lan Ha Bay is recognized by UNESCO as a World Biosphere Reserve whereas Ha Long Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lan Ha Bay comprises around 400 limestone islets and 140 splendid beaches. It took over 500 million years for this breathtaking landscape to form.

Limestone monolithic islets, each topped with thick jungle vegetation, rise spectacularly from the ocean. Unique blend of limestone karsts and emerald waters mesmerize anyone who witness this pristine charm. 

Lan Ha Bay Area is also home to many floating fishing villages.

We wandered around this tranquil beauty for hours. We had some stops for swimming and kayaking. Lan Ha Bay hosts a variety of tranquil beaches that are perfect for kayaking. One of the highlights of the day was to see the ocean eagles! On our way back to Cat Ba Island, powerful sense of gratitude took over my body and I shed tears of joy. The sun was setting, painting the sky with yellow and orange colours. At the end of the day, I was intoxicated with the beauty of our great Mother Nature.

“The tiny flower receives the entirety of the sun. The same disproportionate level of wild blessings are available to us.”   ~ Fred LaMotte

HUE – TU HIEU MONASTERY

Written by Deniz Seyrek on . Posted in Destinations, Vietnam. No Comments on HUE – TU HIEU MONASTERY

This essay is not a travelogue on Hue but it is about the days I spent at Tu Hieu Monastery. What brought me here was the love and great respect I feel for Thich Nhat Hanh. We call him Thay, which means teacher or master in Vietnamese.

“I hope you are not going to transform my words into concepts, new concepts that can be stored inside you. I don’t want to give you anything. I only want to dance for you, like the bee. If you see something, you must realize that you yourself have seen it. It is in you, not in my dance. Please go and sit next to a sleeping child. Look at the child. Or go into your yard and sit at the foot of an apple tree. Or go into the kitchen and make yourself a cup of tea. Whatever you do, do it in full attentiveness, in full awareness. Do not lose yourself in forgetfulness. Please don’t think at all about becoming one with the child, the tree, the tea. There is no need to think at all. Taste yourself with the child, taste yourself with the tree, taste yourself with the tea while a smile blossoms on your lips.”  ~ Thich Nhat Hanh

Zen Master Thich Nhat Hanh is a global spiritual leader, poet, and peace activist, renowned for his powerful teachings and writings on mindfulness and peace. Since Vietnam War, his life had been dedicated to the work of inner transformation for the benefit of individuals and society. He has been a pioneer bringing Buddhism and mindfulness to the West, and establishing an engaged Buddhist community called Plum Village.

If you like to know more about Plum Village, you can read through my essay “Plum Village, A Tribute to Thich Nhat Hanh” where I wrote about my days in Plum Village Thailand. 7 years ago, back in those days I was blessed to see Thich Nhat Hanh at the week of his birthday. So many people from all around the world met there to celebrate his loving, compassionate, wise being and his great teachings that guide us to the ever-present peace and happiness. I clearly remember that moment when hundreds of us shed tears of love as he entered into the space of the celebrations. The light of his pure being was strongly pouring onto us, saturating our soul with immense love.

Tu Hieu Monastery is his Root Monastery where he was ordained as a novice monk at the age of sixteen in 1942. During the Vietnam War, he exiled from his native Vietnam for almost four decades. Then he turned back to this monastery in 2018 and his wish came true as he stayed here in the remaining years of his life. He passed away peacefully in 22 January 2022, in the Deep Listening Hut at this monastery.

With 160 years of history, the monastery has an aged elegance. Its ancient architecture and the beautiful landscapes that surrounds it creates a deeply peaceful environment. The old entrance gate at the beginning of the complex and the half-moon pond that is just behind it take you to another space and time. Through entering this gate, you become enchanted even from the very beginning. The same feelings follow you throughout the whole monastery. There is something mysterious here. Inner silence envelops your soul.

In the mid parts of the area, there is the main sanctuary where the monks do their chantings every day. And behind that, even more mystical feelings evoke in you as you enter the area of Thay’s house and the memorial room he named Deep Listening (below). Seeing inside his house, his bed, working desk, bookshelf makes you feel that he is there, alive, breathing with you. Emotions rise up by imagining the moment of his last peaceful breath. I felt that he was alive in my peaceful breath and in my compassionate tears right at that moment.

Something was gradually getting clarified. So many times, I have heard Thay speaking about our ancestors, pointing out their significance and honoring them. Then during my travels, I learned that the most common belief system in Vietnam is Folk Religion that is devoted to spirits, including the ancestors who are considered to be the guardians and protectors of the family. Then I made the connection between the ancient tradition of these lands and its influence on Thay’s teachings. The presence of our ancestors was a significant part of the mystical energy of the monastery. I was clearly feeling this. They were obviously communicating with our open hearts.

Thay’s teachings underline the truth that we are all a continuation of our ancestors. Our parents and ancestors are inside us. Here is a part from one of his teachings:

~ In gratitude, I bow to all generations of ancestors in my blood family.
I carry in me the life, blood, wisdom, happiness, and sorrow of all generations.
~ In gratitude, I bow to all generations of ancestors in my spiritual family.
I see in myself my teachers, the awakened ones, the ones who show me the way of love,
understanding and forgiveness.
~ In gratitude, I bow to this land and all of the ancestors who made it available.
I see myself touching my ancestors who know the ways to live in peace and harmony with nature,
protecting the mountains, forests, water, animals, vegetation, and minerals of this land.

I ask for their support, protection, and strength. I open my heart and my body to receive the energy of understanding, loving kindness, and protection from them. I vow to contribute my part in transforming the violence, and delusion that still lie deep in the consciousness of the society so that future generations will have more safety, joy, and peace. 

These are my dear grandmother’s hands. I am seeing her hands in my hands now.

During my stay at Hue, I was part of a group of friends who were involved in a 3-day program in the Nunnery of the monastery. The schedule of the days was filled with various programs between 5am to 8pm such as; chanting sutras, singing, dharma talks, silent meals, sitting, walking or tea meditation and deep relaxation (my favourite Plum Village practice). The main practice was mindfulness, to be mindful in any given moment. Modest, serene and kind energies of the nuns and monks were very beautiful, reminding me to align with the ever-present peace.

The tranquil and safe environment of the monastery invites and supports the person to be mindful in every possible breath and step. Your commitment heightens the capacity to access awareness. Then this becomes an advanced practice for anyone even if you are a long-term practitioner and already integrated mindfulness on your path. Advanced in all its simplicity! I really adore the quality of Zen -and also Plum Village tradition- that is based on simplicity which feels natural, easeful, pure and clear. Simplicity increases sensitivity and by this way we touch subtle or hidden areas in our perceptions. There is a powerful yin energy in the air that embraces the person with compassion. I feel safe here. I feel I can rest and soften all parts of my being here. I am held here. I can accept and let go. I can surrender. Everything is taken care of. There is no need to worry. There is no need to fear. This is also the power of the community.

No mud, no lotus… When there is no resistance, unconscious materials can be free to become visible. Opening to all sorts of experiential phenomena enabled me to see once again some of the recurring inner narratives, beliefs and assumptions that were communicating through my body. Especially through the influence of my recent social relationships, I was facing the feelings of being left out or abandoned, inadequacy, unworthiness, arrogance and the fear of loneliness.

In the middle of all these unpleasant feelings, I was worn out. I called out to Thay, my grandmother and my ancestors as I feel them like my protectors. I called them for help. I just wanted to let myself fall in their arms as I was so tired of facing the burdens I had been carrying for so many years. I was heard, I knew it with every cell of my body. I surrendered and something emerged, unlocking some of the closed parts of my heart. Kind of a deep inner knowing was communicating with me, relieving the pain, soothing my soul. There is a tremendous power in surrendering. It is where the silence speaks the truth.

I realized once again that my being is a sacred temple, supported, protected and blessed by the wisdom and love handed down to me from countless generations of my ancestors. Sometimes suffering can be intense, so it is important to remember to ask for help, support or guidance. We are not alone. The nourishment we long for is closer to us than we imagine. I am so thankful for the guidance and compassionate presence of my ancestors. They are with me here and now.

HOI AN

Written by Deniz Seyrek on . Posted in Destinations, Vietnam. No Comments on HOI AN

Hoi An is Vietnam’s one of the most atmospheric towns that is rewarded as a UNESCO world cultural heritage site. Located on a river delta, this picturesque historical town is like an open-air museum, presenting a wide range of beautiful examples of Vietnamese culture and architecture.

From the 15th to 19th centuries, Hoi An was a major Southeast Asian trading post. Main river branches into streams and flow through the middle of the town, at times forming little islands. Hoi An is like the Venice of Vietnam. The river that’s welcomed generations of trade is still a source of livelihood for many locals.

Hoi An has a great heritage of history influenced by different eras and cultures. There are so many historical buildings displaying a mix of European and Asian architectural styles. The old town is like a movie set filled with two-storey old buildings that take you on a journey in time. These pretty looking traditional buildings clearly display their history, as great majority of them seem to be untouched for some centuries. The green moss covering the walls and roof tiles contribute to the authenticity of the architecture.

Especially the old wooden houses with their tiny upper floor balconies, finely crafted wooden railings and colorful lanterns on their facade look so pretty. The picture is even more complete when you see people in traditional clothes taking their photos taken in front of these old houses.

The lanterns are the symbol of Hoi An. They decorate the buildings, the streets and the boats on the river. As the sun sets, the lanterns turn on, lighting up the town in the warm glow of yellow, red, and green light.

The old quarter is full of museums that offer detailed insight into the story of this stunning town. These museums display a wide range of artifacts, objects and elements on history, culture, folklore, handicrafts, pottery, ceramics, weaving, medicinal herbs etc. Below is one of the old heritage houses which you can visit and closely observe the traditional old way of living.

I was here in the rainiest season so almost every day it rained. But this didn’t prevent me from exploring. To me, cycling is the best way to explore the town. The whole area is flat and compared to other crowded parts of Vietnam, traffic in Hoi An is calm and easy. The alleys are pedestrian friendly and there’s plenty to admire on unhurried walks. I really loved the food market area by the river and went there almost every day to observe the daily life in the midst of various food stalls.

There are tiny villages around the town in the same river delta where you can easily access by cycling. These villages are specialized in various handicrafts such as; pottery, basket weaving, lantern making, carpentry, bamboo crafting etc. If you are interested in trying one of these crafts, good news that the villages offer workshops. You can also cycle to the ocean which is quite close to Hoi An center. On the way you see beautiful sceneries of the rice fields between the ocean and the town.

It was also very nice to share some of my days with my wonderful friends that I met on my travels. I am so thankful for life for bringing me the inspiring and loving connections through which we all feel blessed.

I came to Hoi An after the emotionally and spiritually intensive days in the monastery in Hue. Revelations were still emerging both in my waking state and in my dreams. It was as if a birth, a new opening was taking place. I took my time to rest and integrate as I find it helpful and beneficial to kindly hold space for these kinds of openings. As they are like messengers from our deep deep grounds of our essential reality.

Relationships may be the most abundant ground to see and understand ourselves. We can only see ourselves through the reflections in our relations. How can I see myself when there is no mirror? Just like our true nature is in love with knowing itself through us! It needs us, longs for us to know itself. What I talk about here is; merely rising in the community! Rising to our fundamental reality in the realm of togetherness, by facing our own pain, our obstacles, fears, illusions, made-up stories. I noticed that I had been giving remarkable energy to realizing my true nature. For this I have retreated into myself more often because of which my social interactions became limited, therefore I have remained like an adolescent in some parts of my human nature. Facing this made me sad tremendously.

Once in a while I read my diary, and there I see how our minds are tangled and full of stories. This is also valid for the deeper contemplations that are clearer and orderly. So many words, so many thoughts, hesitations, doubts, inconsistencies, comings and goings, ups and downs… On the other hand, how calm everything is in the absence of all these. In peace and in harmony. Closeness, boredom, desire, longing, inadequacy, worthlessness, they are all just thoughts. How illusory it is to believe these to be ourselves and unfortunately our lives are built upon this wrong view. Due to all of its conditionings and fears, our ego never gives up its desires and reinforces the identities it creates. It is how it functions, we can see it for what it is.

Look at your life. This story has been recurring countless times, right? Experiences come and go but something remains. What is the essential thing behind all these? Let’s see; even our attention is conditioned. It is conditioned to direct itself primarily on the ego. But we can shift this perspective. Bit by bit we can break this and turn our attention to look at the source of things. Where they come from? Even if all these different experiences cease to exist, do I disappear? No. So what is that that is prior to all experience, all identities? And later on, we may also be inspired to look FROM the source of things?

Where do all these experiences take place? In the body! In our dear bodies that we re accustomed to overlook. Because we focus on our thoughts instead. As we stop to mistake identifying ourselves with ever-changing thoughts and bodily sensations, what remains is the body that functions like a container. With the things that emerge in the experience, it fills and empties itself, contracts and expands. With no resistance, it becomes a home for the energies that are caught in the wind of change. When we wake up to the possibility of not holding on to the body and mind, then what we felt as pleasant or unpleasant cannot leave an imprint on us. They have a different taste now.  This may be called emptiness but emptiness is also fullness. The taste that emerges and saturates the Being is simply peace and love.

“Most transforming effect of this transition, it puts us in touch with the place of happiness in ourselves. It brings an end for the impossible and unfulfillable search for happiness in objective experience. This doesn’t mean that we stop desiring activities, relationships and so on. We desire them not in order to find happiness in them. We desire them to express, celebrate or share happiness or the peace we already felt.”  ~ Rupert Spira

HA GIANG

Written by Deniz Seyrek on . Posted in Destinations, Vietnam. No Comments on HA GIANG

“Experience yourself as being lived as a wild force of nature, as eyes of a great single unfolding, rather than only a human object moving through time and space getting somewhere.” ~ Jeannie Zandi

Now I’d like to take you to one of the most authentic and beautiful areas located in northernmost Vietnam. This was my first time in this part of the world that is almost at the border of China. I was thrilled to be in these magical lands. The usual excitement of a traveler who is born to explore the world!

In order to come to this region, you need to take 8-hour bus journey from the capital Hanoi.  I used Hanoi as a hub, like a central station and a stopover between different destinations where I could rest and get prepared before new adventures. Vietnam is a long and narrow country. Just to give you a rough idea about its size; it takes 24 hours by bus from mid Vietnam (e.g. Hoi An) to the northernmost parts (e.g. Ha Giang) which is only the half way when we take into account the whole length of the country.

I was here to do the Ha Giang loop that is an iconic motorbike route that takes travelers through the remote and rugged landscapes of Northern Vietnam. This adventure offers an unforgettable journey in between stunning mountain passes, vibrant ethnic villages, and breathtaking natural beauty.

If you are an experienced rider and have an international license, you can self-drive the loop. Or you can get an easy-rider and fully enjoy the whole journey. Easy riders not only drive you but also show you the most amazing viewpoints, talk about the area and the culture and arrange all the accommodations and food along the way. I took part in a group of 4 motorbikes, driven by easy riders. We made more than 400km in 4 days, covering these destinations; Day 1: Ha Giang – Du Gia / Day 2: Du Gia – Dong Van / Day 3: Dong Van – Quan Ba / Day 4: Quan Ba – Ha Giang.

This was an amazing opportunity to enter deep into Vietnam’s breathtaking northern highlands. Proceeding on the meandering roads through mountain passes, plateaus, deep valleys and villages, I so much enjoyed the magnificent scenery. At times we were seeing the mountains of China just in front of us at the other side of deep valleys. Winding our way through massive peaks and canyons, I got carried away by the cool wind and peacefully let myself merge with it.

I was in wonderment by the breathtaking charm of the landscapes. Seeing all those dense jungles, deep valleys nestled in the middle of majestic mountains and vast views of the horizon, I don’t know how many times I was amazed. Every turn is full of picturesque views so you easily feel compelled to make stops to take in the beauty of the scenery. This becomes also a chance to rest as the ride can be tiring. Some roads are smooth asphalt, but the rest are dirt, rough and bumpy. Especially during long descents, the pressure on the upper legs and knees can be overwhelming.

This area is in ‘Dong Van UNESCO Global Geopark’ at the average altitude of more than 1.000m. The Geopark is a world of biodiversity, with many plant and animal species endemic for a tropical to subtropical and temperate karst area. I was surprised by the diversity of the vegetation including pine trees and tropical ones like bamboos, bananas and papayas. This was literally a dazzling show of the mountains with their steep cliffs, sharp summits and rich flora.

With 17 ethnic groups living inside the area, it is the UNESCO Geopark with the highest human diversity in the world. Ethnic minority groups are so diverse such as; Mong, Dao, Thay, Nung, Giay, La Chi, Lo Lo, PU Peo etc. Therefore, traveling around the area of this loop displays the rich local culture of the ethnic hill tribes. My soul was very happy to meet the authentic nature of this place. The villagers still continue their traditional and very humble way of living within simple lives which hadn’t been invaded by the modern world yet. People were poor. It was winter and I rarely saw socks on children’s feet. And yet they were looking quite content of their lives.

I saw both women and men working hard in the fields, doing farming regardless of the cold, rain or wind. Agriculture looks hard here as the soil is quite rocky. Since it is a mountainous region, agriculture is done on terraces. The main product here is corn but sometimes they also cultivate rice. I came across many villagers walking for kilometers, carrying on their backs a big bunch of leaves to bring to their animals to feed. Because they generally have buffalos and goats. I guess they may be meeting their basic needs through their cultivations, animals or exchanges as I didn’t see any little markets or grocery stores in the villages. There seems to be no packaged products or plastics coming to the area, therefore, I did not see any garbage in all the rural areas I visited in Ha Giang. (except for towns)

In order to understand their ethnicity, it is enough to look at the clothes of women. I am very impressed by the variety and colors of the clothes women wear. Skirts, blouses, shawls, belts, socks have bright colors, crafted with dense patterns according to the authentic style of the particular ethnic group. On the embroideries there are various motifs such as eye, foot or wing of a bird, rice terraces, buckwheat flowers. I loved to see women working in the fields in their colorful traditional clothes. It reminds me of the beautiful Indian women in their saris in India. One other thing I observed about women is that the marriage age in the countryside is around 14 or 15 and birth rates are very high. Vast majority of women successively make babies therefore there is a large child population.

Noticing the increasing popularity of Ha Giang loop among travelers, I was more than glad to be here timely. Unfortunately, this acceleration in tourism may create an increase in human population, and investments. As well as its positive benefits, tourism may cause harm in the area because continued investments in tourism results in rapid development. Each year the area may have more difficulties to retain its individual, traditional untouched character.

Each night we stayed at a different local homestay where we had the chance to eat, rest and sleep. So, these times were opportunities to get to know and spend time with our local hosts. After every dinner corn wine (aka happy water) was certainly served, followed by karaoke which is very much loved amongst locals. Below we see one of the homestays we stayed and my friends with whom I shared the whole trip.

In the end, I was very impressed by the mountains here. They reminded me of the fairy tales where the dragons -with their huge wings and tails- would come flying out from behind the majestic hills. Getting to know these mountains, feeling their power and majesty, meeting with all their elements; the plants, animals, caves, streams, villages, farmers, adorable children, I felt deeply grateful.

Seeing the gap between the lives of the people living in modernity and the local people living here inevitably lead you to contemplate. Observing this gap between these two extremely distinct living conditions I ask; what we gain and what we lose in our evolution towards modernity or capitalism? When I see the innocence and the simple spontaneity of the locals here, I feel like I am meeting something that I have been longing for, something that my heart feels so intimate with. Red cheeks of the children tell me so many things. They whisper me about the wholesome relationship between human and nature. This warms my heart greatly.

Proceeding on the motorbike, merging with the winter wind, I look around me with a soft gaze. I feel the majestic mountains that embraced us, that took care of us and didn’t hide any of their beauty. I thank them. Throughout my life, I will carry the traces that these distant corners of the world have left on my being. This is one of the greatest gifts of traveling.